January 2012
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Sancti Spiritus, Another Unesco site
Sancti Spiritus, Cuba
Saturday
21 January 2012
We forgot
our own advice to always ask and bargain for taxi fares. Our Casa
Particular host rode to the bus station to meet us when we arrived from
Trinidad. A taxi driver had already offered his services and we assumed
he would give us a fair rate with our host there. Wrong assumption; we
knew the bus station was 2 Km out of town, so when the driver demanded
$6 CUC, as much as the bus fare from Trinidad, we were shocked. I tried
bargaining with no avail. We swear that is the last time we will be
caught being overcharged.
Our last night in Trinidad threatened
to be a disturbed sleep. It didn’t bother Ray, who can sleep through
anything but it bothered our hosts, who worried that about both Ray and
I. A cricket had taken up residence in our room and proceeded to sing
loud and long as soon as it got dark. We couldn’t locate the pest so I
put in my earplugs and slept soundly. The next morning we were up early
to get the 8 AM bus to Sancti Spiritus and thought no more about it,
that is until I unpacked by bag in our new Casa. Guess who had stowed
away? The cricket! He didn’t get a chance to sing another night. He was
squished by me and sent to cricket heaven.
Our Casa in Sancti
Spiritus was very comfortable and our host helpful. Several of our
friends in Ottawa had complained about the variety and quality of food
they had in Cuba. We cannot say that has been our experience. We usually
eat at least one dinner in our Casa and then try restaurants in the
town. All our meals have been excellent, and the portions far larger
than we can eat. We have had a choice of pork, chicken, fish, shrimp,
and sometimes beef and lobster. Some Casas and Paradores (private family
restaurant) serve soup as a starter. With the meat come rice, sometimes
beans or potatoes, salad, and vegetables. Dessert is fresh fruit and
often a sweet. We usually have a soft drink or a beer with our meal and
I have had a few glasses of not bad wine. Overall we have been enjoying
the variety of food but we will certainly not lose weight on this trip.
Sancti Spiritus was, like Trinidad, one of the first seven villages
established by the Spanish in 1514. Consequently there is a host of old
Colonial buildings to admire, but few tourists. Several bus loads
arrived in time for a prearranged lunch in a restaurant and a quick tour
of town before departing for the next scenic spot on their itinerary.
Other than that, we were in the minority.
We had a relaxing day
walking around town, taking photos of the buildings, investigating the
pretty pedestrian mall, decorated with planters and sculptures, and
reading our emails at the Telecommunications office. That is where the
fastest connection is, and often the only internet available to
tourists.
We kept wondering what product was so popular in each
store that the Cubans were willing to endure long line ups outside the
store before even being allowed inside to see and buy goods. Even paying
a bill in the communications office or entering a bank required a
lengthy wait outside. Ray was the one who braved the line ups to get
more money. He passed the time in the outdoor line up chatting to fellow
potential customers before his turn came to enter the bank. Ray has
found that the best method to obtain cash is to use a credit card to
make a withdrawal. This required a wait until the clerk confirmed that
the transaction had cleared and then getting the supervisor’s attention
to OK the transaction. It pays to be patient in this country.
Each town has a variety of musical performances to choose from each
evening, most starting at 10 PM. The Casa de la Truvo (troubadour)
Miguel Campanioni was right across the street from our Casa. It is a
favourite of the older locals. Generally all Cubans love to dance and
the crowd at the Casa were no exception. We got to the club a little
earlier than most of the crowd, all of whom greeted each other warmly
and made sure they had their supply of drinks for the evening. The drink
of choice was a bottle of rum and a can of soft drink, which if consumed
at all was by the women. Most of the locals don’t like to dilute their
rum with soft drinks. They pour it straight into their glass and savour
the flavour. We each ordered a Mojito, which labelled us as tourists
right away. Ray was offered a taste of the straight goods by the group
sitting next to us but I declined. Straight rum is too strong for my
taste. We were entertained on Friday night by three different groups; a
quintet of guitar, violin, clarinet and percussion and then two trios
who played the guitar and sang in harmony. The locals know many of the
numbers and sang along as they danced. We haven’t taken any Salsa
lessons yet so we were content just to be spectators.
After leaving the Casa dela Truva we
took in the scene at the Casa de la Cultura, which was still in fine
form just down the street. The musicians performed in the open doors of
the building or out on the street. The older fans had seats inside the
building but the majority of the younger fans were outside on the
sidewalk and spilling over into the park across the street. The old
Spanish custom was for young people to walk around the square, looking
the opposite sex over. Besides listening to the music, the young people
seemed to be observing the same ritual but dressed in the latest
fashion, which was decidedly more casual. We stayed long enough to hear
one singer dressed like the Mexican Mariachi players and singing a
traditional number. He was followed by a man who belted out a number
that got the crowd singing along. The music in both venues went on until
1 AM but we didn’t make it past midnight.
Camaguey, Bicycle City and La Belen
Camagüey, Cuba
Tuesday 24 January
2012
Camagüey is a bicycle city in a
bicycle country. The land is relatively flat in the city and bicycles
are a good way to get around. Local transport in Camagüey, as in other
towns, is mainly bici-taxi or horse-drawn vehicles. Car taxis are
available but not as numerous. The narrow streets of town even have
several streets designated as bicycle, bici-taxi, or horse cart roads.
Cars are only permitted making deliveries. Our Casa Particular is on one
of those streets so we have learned to watch for the bicycles rather
than cars. The rest of Cuba is very aware of the prevalence of
bicyclists. We have passed a few foreigners touring by bicycles, but not
many. The secondary roads are not in the best shape but the motor
traffic on even the main roads is light. Even the Intercity buses wait
until it is safe to pass bicycles on the main highway.
It is
amazing how much Spanish I have forgotten in the four years since I had
to use the little I knew. I took some Spanish lessons during or before
three of our other trips. This time I didn’t. That was a mistake. Just a
small percentage of Cubans actually speak better English that I do
Spanish. At least Elsa, who runs our Casa in Camagüey is very
understanding and speaks slowly and makes sure I understand. If I had
been smart, I would have taken lessons in Puerto Morelos before we
arrived in Cuba. Next time I will know better, I hope.
Camagüey
received its Unesco designation in 2008 as a result of its history as
another one of the first seven towns founded in 1514, its labyrinth of
streets, its many plazas and colonial buildings and churches. There are
not as many tourists as Trinidad commanded, but there is lots to see and
do in the town. Reports of purse snatchings and bicycle ride by
robberies seem greatly exaggerated. We have had no problems whatsoever
walking the streets both day and night. There are the usual people
offering souvenirs and services, and the requisite number of beggars but
no one has been very pushy. Usual a simple ‘no thanks’ will send the
person on to another likely customer.
Monday I went to Etecsa,
the Cuban telecommunication company, to use the internet, but found I
was in the wrong office. I couldn’t understand the rudimentary
directions the Etecsa personnel gave me to find the correct office. I
was ready to return to our Casa and look up the address in our Lonely
Planet when a kind lady who had just finished her business realized I
didn’t understand where I was to go. She walked with me about six blocks
right to the door of the Etecsa office with internet and just wanted a
thank you for her efforts. I am not sure that would happen at home very
often.
Camagüey has a very strong Roman Catholic presence but
their religious beliefs do not seem to interfere with daily life. The
recent code announced by the Separate School Board in Ottawa: no form
fitting LuLu Lemon Yoga pants and no cropped tops that show a bit of
belly, would not go over well in Camagüey. These are favoured outfits of
the majority of Camagüeyan women, regardless of age or size. Miniskirts
and black net stockings are popular for daytime and the evening wear.
Noone could walk the uneven cobblestoned streets of Trinidad in the
fashionable high heels worn in Camagüey.
Casa de la Trova
Patricio Ballagas, the place for evening music, was a cut above the Case
de la Trova in Sancti Spiritus. The musicians were more accomplished and
the crowd was more formally dressed. At 10 Pm the action started. We
were entertained by a group of two guitars, a bass, several
percussionists and drummers, a woman flautist and a male and female
singer. The audience danced with flair. One older woman, who must be a
regular, danced every number by herself. One man, who had been dancing
with a partner, joined her briefly. She was obviously more interested in
dancing by herself. We returned for a second show Tuesday, but it wasn’t
the same. The age of the crowd should have warned us, but we stayed for
the first few numbers. It was a large group again, with a trumpet,
saxophone, several guitars, drums and a girl singer. They each had solos
the first number but they don’t seem to believe that the soloist should
be heard. Most of the other musicians seemed intent on drowning the
soloist out, at least that was my impression. Maybe I am just showing my
age. There will be another night of music we enjoy before we leave Cuba.
We walked the streets of Camagüey, going from plaza to plaza,
each with its church and restored colonial buildings. A local artist,
Joel Jover uses Catholic themes in his work, combining traditional and
modern themes. Both Jover and his wife Ileana Sánchez have had
exhibitions in Toronto and in countries all over Europe. We visited both
their atelier and their home to marvel over the riot of colour and
variety of styles. Both are very prolific artists. Ileana prefers
bright, almost cartoon characters, often combined in a collage of
fabrics and other materials. Joel likes bigger works and works on series
of similar themes. One we found interesting was his collages of beer can
pieces and Madonnas.
Today we hired a taxi, a friend of our Casa
Particular, to drive us to the Sierra del Chorillo, range of low
limestone hills southeast of Camagüey. Rancho de Belén was a 60 km drive
over less than perfect roads, in the middle of large nature preserve. We
had arranged with Ecotur, which specializes in nature tours, to visit
and explore the area on horseback. A group of about 20 Cubans were
taking a 12 day course in Eco touring at the Rancho. They were on their
mid-morning break, swimming in the inviting pool, when we arrived. We
had neglected to bring bathing suits, so couldn’t join them.
Somehow
our promised horses were nowhere to be seen. Apparently they had got out
of the stable and taken off to parts unknown. We went for a walk with a
guide, Jorge, instead. He is taking courses to be a guide, especially
for the abundant bird life, so
he was happy to point practise his knowledge of birdcalls and point out
the birds to us. It was mid-day by this time so most of the birds were
hiding in the shady forests but we had a good walk. We passed a herd of
cattle with the longest horns we have ever seen, outside of Uganda,
sheltered in a grove of trees. We kept our distance and kept walking. By
the time we got back to the ranch two hours later, hungry for lunch, the
horses had been located and were saddled, ready for us. We agreed to go
for a short ride after our more than adequate lunch. Cubans must think
all tourists require gigantic meals, judging from our experience.
Jorge took us out again for a walk in the forest this time. My horse
decided early on that she was the boss and no amount of prodding from me
would deter her from grazing on the grasses and to move beyond a lazy
pace. Jorge finally had to take the reins of my horse and lead her
behind his. Ray didn’t have the same problem but his horse was not
interested in any fast pace either. Not having been on a horse very
often our short 45 minute ride was enough for me. The horses were
probably glad to return to the stables too. We had a look around in the
stables before leaving. The ranch specializes in different breeds of
horses and cattle, plus raises antelope and zebras, rather a different
mix of animals. We had a longer day than we anticipated but a good one.
All-Inclusive in the Sun
Playa Santa Lucia, Cuba
Saturday 28 January 2012
Another white coral sand beach and
more sunbathing, what more can I say. We got a good deal on Hotel Gran
Club Santa Lucia, an all-inclusive resort on Playa Santa Lucia, north of
Camagüey. The coral reef that forms a line of waves just offshore is
supposed to be the second longest in the world, after Australia’s Great
Barrier Reef, so how could we miss. Elsa, the owner of our Casa
Particular, arranged for her favourite taxi driver, Aldo, to drive us to
the resort on Wednesday and pick us up three days later.
The
vast majority of the guests came on a SunWings package from Canada. The
charter planes land at Camagüey airport and guests are transferred by bus to
the resort, about 1 ½ hrs away. When we were there groups from Montreal,
Toronto and Winnipeg were soaking up the sun. The resort is a distance
from most of the interesting colonial towns so the majority of the
guests stay for just one week. There were exceptions. We met an older
couple from North Bay who have been coming to the same resort for 24
years and stay for most of the winter. They were only one of several
people we met who keep returning to the same resort. They all like the
low key atmosphere and easy living at the resort. So far we have been
content to intersperse a few days at the beach with our explorations of
the Cuban towns and countryside.
The resort is not five star, but
it was adequate for the price. Our room was a typical hotel style, with
AC, a TV and a mini-fridge that we didn’t need. The food wasn’t gourmet
but included a good choice of beef, chicken, fish and vegetables. There
was no shrimp on the menu, possibly because of the problems in the
Holguin resorts. We learned to line up at the sections where they cook
your food to order rather than choose from the already prepared dishes.
We spent our days walking the beach, swimming in the ocean and
the hotel pool. It was very windy the first two days so the kite surfers
were in seventh heaven. We watched several obviously experienced surfers
speed out from shore, leap and turn in the air. They were having a ball.
Unfortunately, the wind meant that our anticipated snorkel trip
was cancelled. We brought our masks and snorkels with us, anticipating
several trips to the reef. We will have to plan snorkel trip later in
our trip. There are several other possibilities.
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